Precious Metals

Silver, gold and platinum, each with its own temper under the graver.

Sterling cuts sweetly and holds a bright facet better than almost anything else, which is why bright-cut ornament developed on silver. It is also soft enough to move under the tool if the piece is not properly supported, so everything goes on the block or in shellac before the graver touches it.

Gold varies more than clients expect. Eighteen carat yellow cuts cleanly. Nine carat is harder, grabbier, and inclined to tear on a fine line. White gold alloyed with nickel is hard work and unforgiving; palladium white is kinder to both the tool and the engraver.

Platinum is dense, gummy and slow. It drags on the graver face and demands a shorter heel and frequent stoning. Cut properly it holds detail better than any other precious metal and will still read sharply after decades of wear.